A truly exceptional early 19th century French citrine rivière necklace, set throughout with sixteen beautifully graduated oval-cut citrines of remarkable scale and colour, each framed by intricate cannetille goldwork and joined by finely modelled wild rose links.
Dating to circa 1830-1845, this piece embodies the refined craftsmanship of the late Georgian/early Victorian transition, where traditional rivière designs were elevated through elaborate goldsmithing. Each citrine is individually collet-set within delicately worked borders of granulation and repoussé detail, creating a rich, textured surface that contrasts beautifully with the luminous golden stones.
The citrines themselves are of superb quality; vibrant, glowing cairngorm tones with generous depth and beautifully proportioned facets that catch the light with a soft, liquid warmth. The graduating layout draws the eye to the impressive central stone, measuring approximately 22 x 17 mm, giving the necklace a striking yet balanced presence when worn.
Measuring approximately 16.75 inches in length, the necklace sits beautifully at the collarbone - perfect worn alone as a statement piece, or layered effortlessly with longer chains for a more contemporary look.
Of particular note is the exquisite continuity of design throughout, including the clasp, which is seamlessly integrated and set with a matching citrine, maintaining the rhythm and artistry of the piece without interruption - a hallmark of high-quality early craftsmanship.
Hallmarks to the clasp include French owl import marks (post-1893), indicating the piece later passed through France for assay - a common practice for fine jewels that travelled internationally. A maker’s lozenge is also present, alongside an additional indistinct workshop punch, now softly worn with time. Such marks often reflect the working life of early 19th century jewels, offering a glimpse into their journey across borders and generations.
A rare and highly collectable example of French cannetille jewellery, this is a piece that sits firmly at the intersection of technical mastery and wearable beauty, as striking layered into a modern neckmess as it is worn alone as a refined antique collar.
Antique French Citrine Rivière Necklace, 18ct Gold Cannetille, c.1825
- Era: Circa 1830-1845
- Metal: 18ct gold
- Stones: Natural citrines (16 total)
- Stone details:
- Largest: approx. 22 x 17 mm, ~9 mm depth
- Smallest: approx. 11.5 x 8.5 mm, ~6 mm depth
- Graduated oval cuts with vibrant golden colour
- Length: 16.75 inches
- Weight: 55.23g
- Hallmarks: Several French owl import marks (post-1893), maker’s lozenge with “M”, and an additional indistinct workshop punch. Professionally tested on an XRF desktop analyser to further confirm the metal purity throughout.
- Condition: Excellent antique condition
Unless otherwise stated, any chains, jewellery boxes, and other items photographed with the listed piece are for advertising purposes only and not sold with this piece.
































